Opinion on the safety of alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin in cosmetic products

Alpha-arbutin (α-arbutin) (INCI name: Alpha-Arbutin, Chemical name: 4-Hydroxyphenyl- alpha-D-glucopyranoside, CAS No. 84380-01-8, EC No. 617-561-8) and the structurally related compound (optical isomer) beta-arbutin (β-arbutin) (INCI Name: Arbutin, Chemical name: 4-Hydroxyphenyl-b-D-glucopyranoside, CAS No. 497-76-7, EC No. 207-850-3) are similar cosmetic ingredients currently not regulated under the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. Among the reported functions for both α- and β-arbutin are antioxidant, skin bleaching and skin conditioning. The safety of α- and β-arbutin has been previously assessed in the SCCS/1552/151 2 3 and SCCS/1550/15, respectively. The effects of arbutins on the skin could be attributed to their gradual hydrolysis and release of hydroquinone (HQ). Hydroquinone (CAS No. 123-31-9. EC No. 204-617-8) is listed in entry 1339 of Annex II to the Cosmetic Regulation, which means that it is prohibited as cosmetic ingredient with the exception of entry 14 in Annex III (restricting its use to professionals in artificial nail systems with a maximum concentration up to 0.02% in the finished product).